THE RULES OF STYLE BY THE TALENTED MR. RIPLEY

Hace poco vi un hilo de Twitter que recopilaba algunas de las películas con el mejor diseño de vestuario. Hay ocasiones en que las historias están tan bien contadas, la fotografía es divina y el elenco es digno de ser premiado; sin embargo cuando detalles como el vestuario, el peinado o el maquillaje fallan nuestro romance con la película no se completa al 100%./ I recently saw a Twitter thread that collected some of the movies with the best costume design. There are times when the stories are so well told, the photography is divine and the cast is worthy of being awarded; however when details such as clothes, hairstyle or makeup fail, our romance with the film is not 100% complete.

🎥 MOVIES WITH AMAZING FASHION 👘

En esta nueva serie de posts, pondré en el moodboard de inspiración a las películas con los diseños de vestuarios más fascinantes. Y en honor a la llegada del verano en el Hemisferio Norte, la primera carta de amor va dedicada a El Talento de Mr. Ripley, y es que hay personas que dicen que si no fuera por el vestuario no recordaríamos esta película (estoy en desacuerdo, es una historia trágica vestida de suspense en la Italia más pintoresca)./ In this new series of posts, I’ll talk about movies with amazing costume design. And in honor of the start of summer in the Northern Hemisphere, the first love letter is dedicated to The Talented Mr. Ripley, and there are a few people who say that if it were not for the costume design, nobody wouldn’t remember this movie (I disagree, this is a tragic story dressed in suspense in the most picturesque Italy).

A CLASS OF STYLE IN ITALY BY THE TALENTED MR. RIPLEY

Basada en la novela del mismo nombre de Patricia Highsmith (mi escritora favorita de suspense y a la cual también recomiendo), se suele recordar a El Talento de Mr Ripley como el caso de suplantación de identidad más chic y deliberadamente desenfadado (pero perfecto): Tom Ripley finge ser un estudiante de Princeton en una fiesta, el padre de otro antiguo estudiante le contrata para que vaya a Europa y logre que su hijo Dickie vuelva a América, pero en el viaje el suplantador se obsesiona con el estilo de vida de Dickie, hijo del magnate./ Based on the novel of the same name by Patricia Highsmith (my favorite suspense writer and who I also recommend), The Talented Mr Ripley is often remembered as the most chic and deliberately light-hearted (but perfect) phishing case: Tom Ripley pretends to be a Princeton student at a party, the father of another former student hires him to go to Europe and bring his son Dickie back to America, but during the trip, the impersonator becomes obsessed with the lifestyle of Dickie, the Magnate’s son.

El diseño de vestuario de esta película es de los que provoca una envidia vacacional, aunque Tom Ripley (Matt Damon), Margaret (Gwyneth Paltrow) y Dickie (Jude Law) son la clase de personas que aún en verano permanecen con una apariencia casi impoluta, lo suficientemente besados por el sol pero sin la piel quemada y huyendo de la sudación excesiva, algo alejado del incordio verdadero que representan las temperaturas de Julio y Agosto en Italia./ The costume design for this film sparks a summer envy, although Tom Ripley (Matt Damon), Margaret (Gwyneth Paltrow) and Dickie (Jude Law) are the kind of people who remain pristine despite the heat wave, just sun kissed but without burnt skin and fleeing from excessive sweating, something far from the real nuisance of the summer temperatures in Italy.

👒 THE KEY FACTORS  👡

Lino, polos y sobrecamisas de punto ligeras, loafers, camisas semi transparentes, pantalones cortos estructurados y faldas estampadas: una mezcla de lo casual con lo formal, pero sin prendas demasiado flojas, pero tampoco muy apretadas. Digamos que hasta los nudos de las camisas y la cantidad de botones desabrochados están en la medida perfecta./ Linen, light knit garments, loafers, semi-sheer shirts, structured shorts, and printed skirts – a mix of casual with formal, but not too loose, not too tight. Let’s say that even the shirt knots and the number of buttons unbuttoned are in the perfect measure.

El corazón de El Talento de Mr Ripley es la suplantación de identidad y la obsesión con el lujo. Estos temas están explorados desde muchos puntos: el social, el económico, el sexual y la moda también ayuda a narrar el viaje de los protagonistas desde el primer momento. Tom Ripley en su obsesión por la presencia y el estilo de Dickie, pasa a asumir su identidad y a simular su presencia con su ropa, tratando de construir un estilo de vestuario que no puede llegar a replicar del todo./ The core of The Talented Mr. Ripley is identity theft and obsession with luxury. These themes are explored from many points: social, economic, sexual and fashion also help narrate the journey of the characters from the first moment. Tom Ripley, in his obsession with Dickie’s presence and style, goes on to assume his identity and simulate his presence with his clothes, trying to build a wardrobe style that he cannot fully replicate.

Los diseñadoras de vestuario de la película, Ann Roth y Gary Jones seleccionaron piezas que pudieran representar las distintas clases sociales: Tom tiene un presupuesto ajustado y sus piezas son de segunda mano, lleva un estilo que suele ser casi un uniforme: camisa, gafas y pantalones estructurados pero más desgastados. Por otro lado los estilos de Dickie y Margaret juegan con los accesorios, los estampados y la extravagancia del lujo casual y desenfadado. El filme tiene una mezcla del American prep con las piezas populares de Italia de los 40 y 50./ Ann Roth and Gary Jones, costume designers of The Talented Mr. Ripley, selected pieces that could represent different social classes: Tom is on a tight budget and his pieces are second-hand, his style is almost a uniform: shirt, glasses and structured pants. On the other hand, Dickie and Margaret play a lot with accessories, prints, layers and the extravagance of casual and luxury. The film has a mix of American prep with popular Italian pieces from the 40s and 50s.

USE IT IN REAL LIFE

In this artwork: Faitfull The Brand Charlita linen shirt + Deveaux Cuban-collar crinkled-crepe shirt

El Talento de Mr Ripley no es solamente una película con ropa bonita, la selección de su vestuario es esencial para que la historia avance y muestre el progreso de los personajes para pasar de unas vacaciones idílicas en Italia a una pesadilla. ¿La moraleja de esta historia? Puedes intentar copiar el estilo de alguien, pero como Tom Ripley nunca podrás imitarle a la perfección./ The Talented Mr. Ripley is not just a movie with beautiful clothes, the costume design is essential for the story to advance and show the progress of the characters, going from an idyllic vacation in Italy to a nightmare. What is the moral of this story? You can try to copy someone’s style, but like Tom Ripley you can never imitate it perfectly.

Sources & references: ESPINOF + THE RAKE + GRAILED + ID VICE + Images via IMDB

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  • Oh what a fun post series! And two of things I like to notice in movies is the art direction and costume design. I think costume design in particular would be interesting when doing it to create a character. You are right it is so well done in this film. And pristine despite the heat and no sweating hahaha too true. Love this series!

    Allie of
    http://www.allienyc.com

    • thanks for visiting Allie! for me these are two of the most important things to look at, specially when it comes to movies that want to recreate a different era.

  • What a great idea for a post series. I loved reading what you thought about the costume designs of Talented Mr Ripley. I have seen this film and liked it. I’m not too crazy about some of the actors in this film but they all played their part well, the locations selected were perfect and the clothes fits effortlessly into the story.
    I do agree with you that costume design is such an essential part of a film, it really can make such a difference and visual communication is such an important part of filming.

    • Thanks for stopping by Ivana 🙂 Yes, the perfect scenario for a summer escapade, wish I could take a tour to the locations right now 🙂

      Sometimes I watch movies that don’t do a good work when it comes to make up and clothes and the result is not that good, even if you have a good script and good actors!

  • This is brilliant.

    I really like how you described Ripley’s style as something that could be a uniform. Simple, maybe a bit boring. No matter how much he wanted to blend in, he couldn’t truly replicate that innate brat boy swag that what he was seeing in Dickie and his friends. Almost like – you can copy what’s on the outside, but you can’t copy what’s on the inside.

    I am really looking forward to more posts about costume design in movies in the future!

    Great post, Pablo xx

    Naya
    http://www.nayatilly.com

    • Thanks for your lovely comment, Maya 🙂

      I totally agree with you and I liked how you can see the evolution of the characters through every piece, seems like they are only details that were chosen randomly but that’s what I really like about fashion.

      Promise to bring more of these posts 🙂

  • What a fun new series! I think the way fashion and style is used in movies/series is so fascinating as it, hopefully, captivates the characther and the vibe of the story. If there’s a quirky characther, it’s likely that the person is going to wear a lot of colorful pieces and patterns. If it’s serious and mature, darker hues and classic silhouettes will be used and so on. I love how the casual mix of American and Italian fashion is portrayed in this film, just like you say. I think A Single Man is another example of when the fashion and design is a mvp. I mean, what else as it’s Tom Ford, but still! Xx

    http://www.thefashionfolks.com

    • Hey thanks for visiting Mia 🙂

      Totally agree with you, we obviously know that we don’t have to judge a book by its cover but fashion in films and tv shows can tell us a low from the first glance, right?

      Will check A Single Man, I watched Nocturnal Animals a few years ago and truly this is one of my favorite contemporary films 🙂

  • I haven’t seen this movie before but it’s a fun way to look at the wardrobe choices in it, this was an interesting read! thank you for sharing, this is a great idea for a series! 🙂

    Hope you have been having a great weekend 🙂

  • Oh my god this article is amazing.
    You know my love for fashion history so you totally captured my interest in this article.
    This twitter thread is amazing by the way. Thanks for sharing.
    I didn’t know this movie. I need to watch it. I love all theses actors.
    And the pale green set Gwyneth Paltrow is wearing is stunning !
    I would love to help making outfits in the cinema industry one day. All the researches beyond is something I would love to do.
    Last week-end I watched the musical “Hamilton” on Disney + and I was happy to see how the costumes evolve by time passing in the show.
    But one of the movies who inspired me so much is Charade with Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy.
    By the way there is a book called ” Fashion in film’ which is in my wishlist since last Christmas.
    xx
    Margot
    https://troughthepasturesofthesky.com

    • hello Margot, can’t thank you enough for your lovely comments ❤️

      Let me know if you watch the movie or if you read the book, both are great for these summer days and as you I love Gwyneth Paltrow…. have you watched The Politician?

      Will check the book you recommended, thanks for letting me know about its existence 😀

  • Hey Pablo, how do you spending this hot summer days?
    I hope you can manage to find some relief from the heat in the beautiful Barcelona beaches!
    Here the weather is becoming too hot to even put a step out of the door, so I’m spending almost all my day lazily among the swimming pool and the tennis court (and my daily running at park at the sunset).

    About the topic of the day: I’m absolutely enthusiast of this series of posts of your!!!
    Really I’m the kind of person who watch movies even just for the aesthetic or costumes or photography… even if the story itself maybe it’s not very in my cords!
    But this is not the case of “The Talent of Mr Ripley”, that is one of my fav movie ever!
    Apart the location, the aesthetic, the costumes , ecc. I loved the story! This is just the kind of story I like the most, full of smartness, suspence and investigations in the human soul.
    But yet I can’t deny that probably without those costumes and locations maybe that movie wouldn’t be so memorable to me.
    I especially loved how the costumes and the photography were used to undeline and help to create charactes and situations!
    Plus, that move was filmed on Ischia and, in general, around the Amalfi coast and islands, where my mom passed every summer when she was young (my grandparents had a vacation house in Positano and her cousins in Capri) and looking at her pics I can say that it is a quite exact reply of the costumes and the atmosphere of those years (end of 50’s less or more)! This makes everything much more realistic at my eyes!
    Not to mention that I looooove that style for summer vacations: comfy and simple but chic!

    Can’t wait to see your next post about (in case you need some suggestion I’d recommend you “Nocturn Animals”, the story is not exactly happy but costumes and locations are WOW)!

    Take care my friend, and have a great week!
    XO
    S
    https://s-fashion-avenue.blogspot.com

    • Hello Silvia, hope you’re doing good too and thanks for your lovely comment 🙂

      We’re experiencing new cases in the city but at least we are able to go out, I’m doing it with all the safety steps but let’s see…. for now it seems that this is the oddest summer ever….

      As you I love this movie, so good to hear that! This is one of those movies that takes you to a specific era/place in a blink, so good to know you like it and if you can take a look at the book too 🙂

      Didn’t know that they filmed on Ischia, I saw that place in “L’amica geniale” and wouldn’t mind to go there for a summer escapade *___*

      Aaaah thanks for mention “Nocturnal Animals”, another great film (it’s scary and dark) but is definitely one of my favorites!

      All the best!

  • Me encanto esta nueva serie de posts 😀
    Me vas a creer que no he visto esta peli!!! pero ya con lo que mencionas me dieron ganas de verla, o sea una italia tan pintoresca una buena historia y esos actorazos! no se como me la perdi… Cuando la vea volvere a comentar sobre la vestimenta pero desde las fotos ya se ve relindo todo <3

    Te dejo un abrazote amigo 🙂

    • Ay Cher muchas gracias por pasarte por este post 😀

      Si la ves me dices, sé que en Chile ahora es Invierno, pero es una de esas películas ideales para ver en verano, toda la ambientación es maravillosa ❤️

  • Hey Fungi!

    I hope you started this week with something fantastic:)
    Your article about the movie’s fashion is really great with fantastic collages!!
    That mint green shirt from Faithful The Brand is lovely, so I checked it on Net-A-Porter.
    Net-A-Porter is my favorite online shop, and I see adorable items there over 10 times a day!

    Your sentence in the last paragraph is really true! Although I saw Ripley about 10 years ago, I would love to see it again.
    Anyway, “… remain pristine despite the heat wave” is funny and lovely, hahaha!

    akiko

    • Hey Akiko, I hope you’re doing good too 🙂

      Haha I think this is a great movie to watch during summer days right?

      Did you catch something on Net A Porter? haha

      Best!

    • Hey Radi, all is great over here 🙂

      Watch if you can, this is definitely a good idea to have all the beach season in case you are not able to visit the beach due to the quarantine.