THE ILLUSTRATED WARDROBE ESSENTIALS: THE TRENCH COAT (1)

Después del post SLOWING DOWN FAST FASHION recibí algunos comentarios por aquí y por Instagram con experiencias y puntos de vista de amigos y lectores sobre este tema: algunas historias de decepciones con la manera en que el sistema actual de la moda trabaja y otros mensajes más esperanzadores convencidos de que paso a paso es posible cambiar los hábitos de consumo en una industria que ya es la segunda más contaminante. Esto me hace ver que afortunadamente el tema no será cosa de un día, pero cada quien desde sus posibilidades puede actuar y contribuir./ After my SLOWING DOWN FAST FASHION POST I received some comments here and on Instagram with experiences and points of views from friends and readers about this subject: some of you disappointed with the way fashion system works right now and other hopeful messages telling that step by step it is possible to change the consumption habits in an industry that is already the second most polluting. This makes me see that fortunately the subject will not be temporary, but everyone can act and contribute according to personal possibilities.

Chapter 1. THE TRENCH COAT

Cada vez me convenzo más de que no necesitamos tanta ropa (por supuesto que me encantaría tener un walking closet, pero también pienso que lavar a diario me daría pereza), así que he decidido enlistar e ilustrar una serie de objetos que deben estar en nuestro armario sí o sí, sin importar los caprichos de las temporadas que cada vez son menos duraderos… Porque no sé ustedes, pero aunque tuviera el dinero, no sé si me compraría el suéter-verde-dáñame-la-pupila de Balenciaga, ya que hay cosas que se pueden ver como inversión y otras más como objetos que a la larga terminarán en un cajón o en la basura, que es lo que precisamente queremos evita)./ I’m more convinced that we do not need so many clothes (of course I would love to have a walking closet, but I don’t know about doing laundry even more), so I decided to list and illustrate a series of objects that should be in your wardrobe, regardless of the whims of every seasons that are becoming less durable…. I don’t know about you, but even if I had the money, I don’t know if I would buy that fluorescent green sweater by Balenciaga, since there are things that can be seen as an investment while other objects could end up in a drawer or in the trash, which is precisely what we want to avoid.

El objeto que inaugura esta serie de posts es el Trench Coat./ The first object in this series of posts is the Trench Coat.

In this illustration: Burberry original trench coat

A SHORT STORY

Seguramente cuando pienses en un trench coat la primera imagen que aparezca en tu mente es la gabardina Burberry en un idílico escenario londinense. En 1879, la firma creada por Thomas Burberry en Hampshire, ideó un tejido impermeable y transpirable a la vez, capaz de contrarrestar los estragos de la lluvia./ Surely when you think about a trench coat the first image that appears in your mind is the Burberry trench coat in an idyllic London setting. In 1879, the firm created by Thomas Burberry in Hampshire, designed a waterproof and breathable fabric at the same time, able to counteract rain and wind.

Hasta ese entonces no existía un tejido capaz de repeler el agua, y la necesidad surgió a partir de la Guerra de las Trincheras (de ahí el nombre trench coat, wink wink), siendo originalmente una prenda exclusiva para los oficiales en el campo de batalla./ Up until that moment there was no fabric capable of repelling water, and the need arose from the War of the Trench warfare, being originally an exclusive garment for officers on the battlefield.

ICONIC MOMENTS

Pictures via IMDB.com

– El trench coat tardó un poco en dar el salto del campo de batalla a las calles, el empujón mediático se lo dio la película Casablanca, su protagonista Humphrey Bogart llevaba el trench coat como nadie lo ha hecho./ The trench coat took a while to move from the battlefield to the streets, then the film Casablanca showed us Humphrey Bogart wearing this garment in the daily life.

– Gene Kelly en Cantando bajo la lluvia demostrando que la prenda está hecha para repeler el agua. Medicamentos para la gripe no incluidos./ Gene Kelly in Signing in the Rain showing that this garment is made to repel water. Flu medications not included.

– El personaje de Daryl Hannah en una letal misión en Kill Bill Vol.1. Es imposible olvidar su look y también el silbido./ Daryl Hannah in a lethal mission in Kill Bill Vol.1. It is impossible to forget her look and also the whistle.

– El final de Breakfast at Tiffanys donde el personaje de Audrey Hepburn pone a prueba la impermeabilidad de su trench coat para rescatar a Cat./ The end of Breakfast at Tiffanys where Audrey Hepburn test the waterproofing of her trench coat to rescue Cat.

WHY SHOULD YOU GET ONE?

La capacidad de reintrepretación ha ayudado a cimentar el éxito del trench coat, y de hecho varios diseñadores lo han utilizado como lienzo en blanco para adaptarlo a la visión de su marca: Maison Margiela, Stella McCartney o Jean-Paul Gaultier son algunos ejemplos, incluso Burberry sigue presentándolo con algunas modificaciones en cada una de sus nuevas colecciones./ The ability to reinterpret has helped to cement the success of the trench coat, and in fact many designers have used it as a blank canvas to adapt it to the vision of their brand: Maison Margiela, Stella McCartney or Jean-Paul Gaultier are some examples, but even Burberry is still presenting it with some modifications in every new collection.

Lo mejor es que es una prenda que puede tener distintas vocaciones, porque aunque la lluvia y el viento son el pretexto para comprarlos, su vida útil se alarga: pueden ser usados tanto para llegar a la oficina elegantemente o para salir a tomar algo en las tardes de entretiempo, ni demasiado ligeros pero tampoco abrumadores./ The best thing is that this garment can have different vocations, although rain and wind are the pretexts to buy it, its useful life could be extended: it can be used both to go to the office elegantly or to have a drink in the mid-season evenings. It is not too light but not overwhelming.

In this illustration: 1. KENZO trench coat + 2. Burberry with stitching details  3. Stella McCartney ruffled trench coat + 4. Acne Studios trench coat 

Siluetas XXL, versiones más cortas u opciones de color que son una buena opción si no te convence el beige clásico. El trench coat tal vez haya perdido su funcionalidad militar, pero a pesar de sus variaciones aún mantiene una apariencia perfectamente reconocible y que sobrevivirá a cualquier capricho de la temporada./ XXL silhouettes, shorter versions or options in many colores that are a good option if classic beige does not convince you. The trench coat may have lost its military functionality, but despite its variations it still maintains a perfectly recognizable appearance and will survive any whim of the season.

More references: Vogue UK

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  • Ah yes so true, and to that end I have been changing my shopping habits and buying more pre-loved second hand thrifted clothes. I am doing more and more posts on my blog on this topic. Though I have problems buying trench coats because when they make them a small size like a «0» they assume you are 5’5″ or shorter. But I am almost 5’8″ so the arms are usually too short and the belt is up around my rib cage instead of my belly button where it should be.

    I would need to buy a Burberry but that is a bit out of my price range lol!

    Allie of
    http://www.allienyc.com

  • I don’t have a trench coat in my closet, but I agree that is an essential piece, a true classic that never goes out of style. I’m still looking for the right one. I really like the classical Blueberry one and your illustration of it is so beautiful. I haven’t seen the ruffled one by Stella before, but I really like the look of its…a feminine twist on classical design.

    Buying classical items is a great way to resist the temptation of fast fashion. I love your slow fashion approach.

  • Such a great topic and I love how you illustrate your article.
    Your illustrations are soooo beautiful !
    I love the trench coats. It’s such a fun piece to also be able to wear it in so many different ways.
    And I love the iconic moment you shared with Audrey Hepburn calling her cat. One of my favorite movie moment maybe.
    This Stella McCartney trench coat with the details of the ruffles on it is stunning ! I love the ruffles so much !
    xx
    Margot
    https://troughthepasturesofthesky.com

  • hey Pablo, how are you? 🙂
    It’s always a pleasure to find a new post on your blog!
    And , as usual, I totally agree with your considerations: a good trench coat really is a must for every woman!
    And, since that probably you’ll wear it forever ( and with almost everything) it’s one of those pieces to invest on.
    I’ve got 2 trenchcoats on my wardrobe, a Burberry and a Max Mara both in beige color, bun one clearer than the other: the burberry is the classic trenchcoat while the Max Mara has a more fancy line, it resembles a kinda of cape in someway.
    Pesonally I prefer classic lines and colors, even if i appreciate a lot even more of the recent iteractions of it, especally if look classy and elegant.
    As usual, in love with your illustrations and collages! *_*
    XO
    S
    https://s-fashion-avenue.blogspot.com

  • I wanna cry after reading this post. Amigo, you’re amazing. I super love learning so much from what you write. I honestly don’t know about the story behind the trench coat and it’s so fascinating that you share it to us here. Despite not knowing so much about it, what came into my mind whenever the thought pops are Burberry and Audrey Hepburn from Breakfast at Tiffanys. Her look is so iconic. UGh so perfect. We don’t need trench coats with our crazy hot weather here in Ph but I would love to have one of that iconic fashion piece. And hey, your illustrations are so superb. I’m seeing you as an iconic designer of the future! OMg that excites me so so much!

    love lots,
    Tin

    mypoeticisolation.blogspot.com

  • Hey Fungi!!

    What a great article, and I really love your illustrations and thinking!
    I’ve ever bought three beige trench coats, and I would love Burberry or one someday!!
    There are different trench coats by Riccardo Tisci, but I am sure that plane design is the best.
    Although Kenzo trench coat is so amazing…

    Recently, I could wash my trench coat by a washing machine at home.
    I have no need pay for dry cleaning!!

    Have a lovely weekend, Fungi <3

    akiko

  • Hey Fungi!

    Thanks so much for all your comments on my blog! Always appreciate them!!!

    I love a trench coat and am thinking of getting a new one as soon as autumn hits. LOL! Got to think ahead, righ? LOL! I agree with you, it’s the kind of coat you can wear for so many years to come and always makes you look so cool.

    Hope you’re having a great day!

    http://www.fashionradi.com