BALENCIAGA, VETEMENTS, OFF WHITE: FROM NORMCORE TO GLAMCORE

Algunas personas confían en que el mejor consejo de moda es nunca deshacerse de ninguna prenda, ya que uno de los caprichos más impertinentes de cualquier tendencia es volver de forma constante e inesperada, y justo cuando habías creído que no necesitarías esa chaqueta flúor, aparecen ríos de tinta (o de hashtags) nombrando a dicha prenda como el objeto de deseo de la temporada./ Some people say that the best fashion advice is to never get rid of any garment, since one of the most impertinent whims of any trend is to return constantly and unexpectedly, and just when you thought you would not need that fluorine jacket, the media (and the hashtags) name that garment as the object of desire of the season.

I WANT TO LIVE LIKE COMMON PEOPLE…

Fue posiblemente en uno de esos momentos donde tengo mucho tiempo para pensar -sitúenme, en una actividad que nadie comparte en Instagram Stories, por ejemplo, en la cocina lavando los platos- cuando me pregunté, ¿cuáles son las canciones, películas y sobretodo, las tendencias que están definiendo a mi generación? Me vinieron a la cabeza varias marcas de moda, pero resaltó sobre todo la estética provocadora, un poco trash e inconformista de Balenciaga, Off White y Vetements, las cuales se han desligado de lo que muchos inicialmente llamaron normcore o mall style (estilo de centro comercial) para inventarse un lenguaje propio y que además, se jacta de tener sus artículos en SOLD OUT (agotados)./ It was possibly in one of those moments when I have a lot of time to think -imagine me, doing an activity that nobody shares on Instagram Stories, for example, in the kitchen washing the dishes- when I asked myself, which are the songs, the movies and above all, the trends that are defining my generation? A lot of fashion brands popped into my mind, but especially the provocative aesthetic and the nonconformist attitude of brands like Balenciaga, Off White and Vetements, which have detatched from what many people initially called normcore or shopping mall style to invent their own language and also boast of having many products as SOLD OUT.

In this image: VETEMENTS in Lady Bird characters. Photo via IMDB, edit by Hey Fungi

No voy a mentir, cada que Demna Gvasalia (director creativo de Balenciaga y fundador de Vetements) presenta una colección, mi mente no para de preguntarse cómo es que el look de mi tío Ramón (una decisión aparentemente fortuita y totalmente desligada de algo que se pudiera ver en una revista de moda) ha pasado a formar parte del código que está definiendo a una generación: en el street style de fashion week, en las revistas y blogs y sobretodo en las cadenas fast fashion que son ese último eslabón entre las tendencias y un gran porcentaje de los consumidores finales./ I will not lie, every time Demna Gvasalia (creative director of Balenciaga and founder of Vetements) presents a collection, my mind doesn’t stop wondering how the attire of my uncle Ramón (a seemingly fortuitous decision and totally detatched from something that you could see in a fashion magazine) has become part of the code that is defining a generation: in the street style at fashion week, in magazines and blogs and especially in the fast fashion chains that are the last link between trends and a large percentage of final consumers.

Creo que el discurso de la fascinación por lo ordinario y la gente común, logra convencer a ésta nueva generación al poner en el foco de atención una serie de historias con prendas que han estado en el entorno real todo el tiempo: en paseos casuales por el centro comercial y en memes de Tumblr. Y no hace falta hacer una investigación exhaustiva, basta con salir a la calle para darse cuenta de que las chaquetas acolchadas, las camisetas con logotipos de marcas aleatorias, las riñoneras (cangureras), las gafas estilo Matrix y las deportivas “feas” han conquistado la pasarela más importante: el asfalto./ I think that the discourse of the fascination with ordinary and common people manages to convince this new generation by putting in the spotlight a series of stories with clothes that have been inthe real environment all the time: in casual walks through the shopping mall and in Tumblr memes. And you do not need to do a thorough research, just go out to the street to realize that padded jackets, t-shirts with logs of random brands, fanny packs, Matrix-style sunglasses and “ugly” sneakers have conquered the most important catwalk: the streets.

In this image: OFF WHITE in Friends characters. Photo via IMDB, edit by Hey Fungi

“La ropa tiene connotaciones y hasta que la gente no sabe quien eres, manda un mensaje sobre ti a los demás” dice Demna Gvasalia, quien con una vuelta de tuerca inesperada ha logrado popularizar el anti-estilo, leyendo la moda con un filtro sociológico que se traduce no sólo en más ventas para Balenciaga y Vetements, sino también en un fenómeno cultural y en los pasos a seguir de otras marcas como Fila, Off White, Louis Vuitton o Acne Studios./ “Clothes have connotations and until people do not know who you are, they send a message about yourself to others” says Demna Gvasalia, who always know how add the final twist to common things, popularizing anti-style and reading fashion with a sociological filter which translates not only into a sales increase for Balenciaga and Vetements, but also in a cultural phenomenon that many others brands like Fila, Off White, Louis Vuitton or Acne Studios are following too.

Y así, mientras lavaba los platos reafirmé que la moda en última instancia es ir de compras o pasar las hojas de una revista brillante, sino más bien el resultado de una observación sociológica muy minuciosa que define cada tic del reloj en forma de un abrigo o accesorio aparentemente frívolo e inofensivo./ And that’s how, while washing the dishes, I reaffirmed that fashion is not only about going shopping or flip the pages of a glossy magazine, but rather the result of a very thorough sociological observation that defines each tick of the clock in the form of a seemingly frivolous coat or a harmless accessory.

In cover image: BALENCIAGA in Little Miss Sunshine characters. Photo via IMDB, edit by Hey Fungi

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  • What a great piece of article Pablo! Always bringing terrific posts with genius illustrations/collages. I agree that fashion is so much more than buying and consuming. It’s a reflection of our society today, what we think about, our ideals and where we’re going. I personally think that the best part of fashion is to explore this and see how society is reflected in the trends and the clothes that we wear. I think the 90s street style that is so popular atm goes well with the independent vibe of the younger generation and the attitude that comes with it.

    Thank you as always for the sweet comments on my site and have a lovely week! Xx
    http://www.thefashionfolks.com

    • Thanks for your feedback, Mia! I really appreciate your opinions since your blog is one of those sites that really deserve to be read ❤️

  • I do absolutely agree with you. There is always more to fashion than meets the eyes. There is a lot of strategy and tactics in the fashion world. You’re right about brands like these 3 creating a new aestetic out of the things we already know. Making something that is already familiar and close to us become mainstream fashion makes sense. We can see that the brands that have done realized the potential of ‘ordinary fashion’ are doing well now.

  • Not really sure how I feel about norm core, don’t mind a more dressed down look or a mix of “norm core” with more elegant pieces. And certainly don’t need the stillettos and power suits of the 80s OR the track suits of the 90s for that matter, to me a mix of high and low and a dash of your own style is a good way to go.

    And yes I did change the design of the blog, it had been 4 years and it was time! Also switched to the Genesis framework and this made my site load even faster. I had already switched hosting companies. Thank you for our kind words! I hope to fun it up more with more designed posts and gifs.

    Do you go to PFW in the fall?

    Allie of ALLIENYC
    http://www.allienyc.com

  • Hey Fungi!

    It’s so nice to once again see a new post from you. This post definitely made me think how my older generations have all the pieces that are now coming back without them even knowing it’s “the IT piece to have” . A bit funny because they have no clue about what’s in fashion, but if I get the chance to look through their closet, I know I’ll find lots of treasures.

    Thanks from the bottom of my heart for taking the time to comment and support my blog. You’re a true friend!
    Have an amazing day!

    http://www.fashionradi.com

  • hi Pablo! I came back to this post so I can have another look at it ( I was away for a few days and I didn’t have my laptop with me). I love what you said about fashion being circular, it is so true. After all, there doesn’t exist an infinite number of cuts and styles, right?

    The best thing would be to do what Anna della Russo does- rent a few apartments in Milano to store all her clothes…but I don’t think that most of us can afford to do that. That is why we need to decide what to keep and what not.

    I love your collage art. My fav piece here is the one with the friends…what a cool edit! makes me reminiscent about this sitcom…I used to love it.

    • Hey Ivana, don’t worry! I always appreciate your opinions and as I always say, they give me a better perspective of the topics I talk about in this blog, so your opiniones are more than welcome in Hey Fungi ❤️

      Hugs from Barcelona,
      Pablo

  • I absolutely adore this post, you bring to light such important issues with such fun little graphics. Thinking about styles that define our generation is an interesting thing to think about, but comparing them to older generations is probably quite useful in reflecting how things have changed. I love that styles change, but I agree that we should always keep hold on older pieces.

    Amy;
    Wandering Everywhere

    • Yes Miriam! Your mother is right and that’s why sometimes we must keep some garments in the closet!

      Thanks for stopping by!
      PS: Little Miss Sunshine is also one of my favorite films ❤️

  • Hey, Fungi!

    What a great post!!
    I really love the last collage image and agree you!
    I’m fashion addict, so I used to spent lots of money for fashion.
    Now I notice more interesting thing like your article!!
    Thank you, Fungi <3

    akiko

  • Estoy de acuerdo, la moda es un reflejo de nuestra sociedad y a pie de calle es donde se nacen todo tipo de tendencias.
    MA RA VI LLA como siempre, Pablo, son cada uno de tus post! Es un placer verte y leerte!
    Un abrazo, Gran Pablo!
    Paz

  • OMG super love what you did with those movie screen shots! LadyBird is literally one of my favorite movies now! Have you watched it? I feel so good reading your blogs Pablo because I learned a lot especially in fashion and in art. I wonder what the attire of your uncle Ramón looks like after reading your blog. hehehehe

    love lots,
    Tin